Rollin’ into Syros

I feel harassed to tell you what an issue I have created with my luggage, dearest Graeme has mentioned in several times. He mutters “That bag” pointing to the flabby kind of wheel along holdall big enough to fit an adult human in.

It reared its head at Gatwick airport, when I honestly had this moment which felt straight out of an absolute nightmare, that suddenly I had no idea what was in it. It felt like I’d packed it weeks ago (well 10 days to be exact) like something had got in there I didn’t need. Or was it just the sheer volume of clothes I thought I needed. (I do need – it’s cold here at the moment, jumpers, jeans and jackets are wardrobe staples, I need hiking boots, but then it gets really hot by June – so YES I DO NEED 7 PAIRS OF SHORTS AND 10 BIKINIS!)

Anyway I had a wobble about the big bag at the airport – Graeme sniffed, winding me up and said “your bag your problem”. Harsh, but fair. But it was under 20 kilos, so we managed everything we needed under 80kgs – I was impressed. Despite this we huffed, puffed and struggled when we arrived in Athens. Luckily our Airb&b host Nasos met us at Syntagma Square and took one look at us and laughed “you moving here or what?” Lol – ‘Yes actually!” we replied. He helped us drag the bags to his flat. All fine, see big bag is okay.

Luckily I had done some research and come up with a genius idea weeks in the planning to check our bags into the long term luggage storage at Athens Studios – brilliant place, 3 euros a day for a massive locker and no need to even think about the bags for a whole week while we took enough stuff to last us through Meteora and Delfi. Perfect. Not to end up torturing ourselves with the bag shuffle to Piraeus last Sunday, we cleverly decided to ‘treat ourselves’ to a taxi. “Not a problem” nice taxi man helped – earned a tip and left us to huffle and puffle the bags into a wardrobe sized lift to the 5th floor in the aforementioned ‘hotel of ill-repute’..

After a  sleepless night in Piraeus at such a dubious hotel, I won’t bring myself to mention its name we set off to walk 800 meters to baord teh ferry to Syros with THE BLOODY BAGS!

Again, all fine the bags made it on the Blue Star Naxos – piled in the safety one of the luggage hold areas on the car deck.  We relaxed, snoozed and wandered around gazing wistfully at the Aegean in the blue lit hours after dawn. It always makes me think of the line in Nikos Kazantzakis’ Zorba the Greek; “The sea, autumn mildness, islands bathed in light, fine rain spreading a diaphanous veil over the immortal nakedness of Greece. Happy is the man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean Sea” . It truly was a sight to behold, an unwritten summer of adventure and discovery opening up before us on the horizon…plus the travelcalm tabs had kicked in so I was feeling a little soppy.

After 3 and a bit hour’s of people watching and cheese pie eating (nb. blue star snack bars are actually pretty decent for coffee and snacks these days), soon enough the ferry starts slowing into to Syros. Its bulk heaved into the port at Ermoupoli, its twin hills glinting in pastel shades under a turquoise sky.

We had a few words between us on the ferry about whether to get a taxi to Avlitis Studios, they were a 12 minute google mapped distance and I was convinced they were tricky to find up a hill. Anyway we set off walking after the chaos of a ferry arrival, cars beeping, families reunited and tourists looking for hosts and busses on the port. We walked and dragged the bags…oh my big bag felt like someone had replaced all my shorts and sandals with lead, its wheels were useless on the cobbles and the pull along handle isn’t quite big enough to get a speed up. “Grrr”, I was sweating – wearing a coat and the sun blazed down. There was a moment when I gritted my teeth and muttered inaudibly “should have got a taxi, stick to your instincts Lindsay, don’t listen to this crazy penny pinching idea of walking..grrrrr”. We kept swapping over the bags and each talking it in turn to pull/push THE BIG BAG. Then Graeme, detecting this was getting harder – cracked out an ingenious idea! The longboard, of course, that trusty steed!

Next thing I know he has placed the bag on top of the board, its smooth alloys mean the bag moves along with much less effort. Brilliant! – Oh, look there’s a hill we have to climb. He hands over the reins to me, no problem this is a breeze the bags weight is reduced by half and I pull it gently up the hill – at the peak I am almost jubilant, we can see the Avlitis sign, we are really close to the studios. We both look at each other relieved, excited, the big Greek adventure. Then, suddenly everything just slows down, my grip recedes from the bag, the bag now on its super-fast wheels starts to move…downhill.

I freeze, my instincts make me shout at the Bag “Stop, Stop!  STOOOOOPPPP!” I am a fool, an idiot – the massive bag shaped ‘vehicle’ starts speeding up, it careers down the hill, I try to chase it continuing yelling. Graeme swears, I can feel tears welling up, I am panicking, he runs like a superhero. All the while the bloody 20kilo monstrosity keeps going down the hill, faster and faster, down at least 400meters, I can’t breathe! Then by some miracle the big flabby bag gives up, it skids off the longboard. It rolls like a car in a highway chase and then skids to a halt. Okay – this we can cope with. But no, that would be okay, but we still have a problem. The longboard isn’t one for slowing, so it keeps going until the end of the road and does a grand finale and jumps! I think it’s just into grassy scrubland, or is it a ravine, or a dried up river bed. I just stand there crying, heaving, thinking over and over, “What a numpty” and worse…Graeme jumps down into the concrete base and grass – he doesn’t yell, he shakes his head and I just die a little bit inside knowing that he loves that board and if its splintered in two, all the money in the world won’t make it right…just when I’m about to really cry, he triumphantly emerges from the grass holding the longboard still in one piece! This means our marriage is still in one piece…all can be saved!

“Only you! Only you could do that” he shouts from the bottom of the hill! Then starts dragging the bag up the hill again, with the might of the Greek legend of Sisyphus pushing the rock to the top. Although if you know the tale that really should have been my punishment. Only this time unlike me, he doesn’t let go – we make it just round the corner, I run ahead to the studio and Antonios runs out to greet us and help with ALL THE BLOODY BAGS.

Once inside the haven, for the first 5 minutes we can’t look at each other. Antonios Mum, Maria makes us strong Greek coffees and laughs at how much luggage we have. “Only a week here” I smile and blink back tears. When they leave us in our room, I am red faced. “They must think we are idiots” Graeme looks at me “No, you are the idiot and that bag is your idiot bag”

One day we’ll laugh about this. Not yet, maybe in a week or a month, or even a year – but I really hope it will be funny.

Miraculously, no children, mopeds, goats or cats were injured in this incident. But there was a bemused farmer who looked on from the hills and probably thought “Idiot Brits and their MASSIVE BLOODY BAGS”. Which I imagine means the whole island knows about our arrival…

Greek train travel to Kalambaka: order out of chaos

The journey to Kalabaka to see Meteora by train was a rather unique experience. Even though I’d consider myself an experienced train traveller, I’m a daily South Eastern London commuter and with a few trips across Europe and the US under my belt, I naively thought how hard can this be? Buyng the tickets online was easy enough. Yet all that experience didn’t bear relevance whatsoever when it comes to train travel in Greece. Arriving at Larissa Station in Athens isn’t really how you’d expect the national train station to be. It only has 4 platforms, no working departure or arrival boards, no newsagents or snack bar, no announcements and passengers just take it upon themselves to wander over the tracks to get across. Despite it being very chaotic, there was a strange order at play – a calm very Greek statement of fact about it all.  The Station Guards wear stab vests with the word SECURITY emblazoned across. This was both unnerving (who attacks a train man?) and reassuring (obviously a man who’s acting as bouncer knows everything). When such one man sent us across to Platform 4 he clearly wasn’t in the know. This platform did look a little underused with weeds littering cracks in the concrete, another guard shouted us back and said ‘NO, the train to Kalabaka goes from here..maybe’. All the locals were as bemused as the tourists, all united in trepidation as we  waited for the same cross-country train. London Kings Cross at rush hour this most certainly wasn’t – but maybe that’s why I enjoyed it so much.

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Passengers were asking each other and I have a feeling that the most informed man among us was the humble Koulari seller, who seemed to know the timetable from memory and advantageously I I grabbed two Koulari’s (seasame seeded bread rings which are a traditional breakfast snack) for a bargain 1 euro. Once the train arrived looking every bit like a state ran 1980s engine as I’d imagined, the chaos really kicked up a notch. Everyone seemed to pivot towards cramming onto two sets of the 5 carriages – it make no sense we all had mandatory reservation, why was everyone rushing? We had seats in carriage 5, we boarded where we could but there was no signs indicating which carriage this was! Old ladies, bustled through with boxes and bags, every man, woman, child for themselves, shoving elbows to place bags in the shelves and shouting ‘signomi’ ‘parakelo’ through the carriage. Tourists stood aside in a mix of awe and fear clutching tickets. I asked a young teenager which carriage we were stuck in the middle of; he simply smiled, shrugged ‘then xero / not sure, maybe next 2 along?’. We gave up and submitted to this style of travel decorum as the train started to shunt out of Athens, we just sat down where we could and hoped for the best. It wasn’t long until the guard came along and checked everyone’s tickets, this is a very organised aspect, as he holds a manifest of every named passenger on the train- he kindly said our seats were a couple of carriages back but we were fine to stay where we were as they weren’t reserved. Phew!

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The journey was beguiling once out of the city of Athens and sailing through the suburbs, a gentler pace sets in as the train trundled through real Greece. A country so different than a sum of it’s cities and tourist resorts, past high mountains and snow covered peaks, flat farmland and grazing plains, places where more tractors graced the roads than cars. All under clear blue springtime skies and golden sunlight, the trees blossoming with pinks and whites as we shunted past – stopping at one horse towns and tiny stations connecting lines through to Thessaloniki and Lamia.

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The diversity in the landscape is most surprising; seen as a microcosm of the nation, from high rise new apartments to gypsy encampments under bridges and huge expanses of concrete mixers sidling on half-built highways and infrastructure projects, rows of abandoned factories, old trains and wagons lie rusting in their faded glory next to the tracks. The reality of a post recession Greece and the impact of economic boom and bust, sits side by side the postcard pretty olive groves and sheep farms.

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Arriving for a few days hiking in Kalambaka was beautiful – it deserves more pictures than words. Its beauty instilled a peace in my restless mind that I hope will have a long-lasting effect.

7 days in Greece

Well, a week in to this adventure and where do we find ourselves? Back in Athens and ready to roll on to Delfi. I awoke this morning to the buzz and beep of traffic, we are staying in a studio sandwiched between Ormonia Square and Exharia, not the prettiest of places in Athens. But rather interesting, revealing a different side of the city away from the Plaka and tourist shops, here in the belly of the city lies a diverse set of characters, immigrants, travellers, and rough street hustlers jostle for space. On Tuesday night we were kept awake by some sarky street ‘ladies’ plying their trade and shouting at passers by in stuttering Greek until 4am. Many of the areas scruffiest streets are a mix of once beautiful neo-classical mansions, now seemingly abandoned and left to decay, but many have balconies adorned with flowers like an oasis amidst 70s apartment blocks adorned with angry anarchist slogans and families living side by side. All of urban Athens as a melting pot, a diverse side of the city displaying all its grit and complexity. We ate at a great Cretan restaurant last night in Exahria ‘Oxo Nou’ – lively and great food, a pleasant reward after a days work.

Athens - Kalabaka

Since arriving, its been a journey of many parts making the week seem much longer, having hopped from place to place. The first 3 days were spent in the Plaka area of Athens, revisiting some bars and tavernas we enjoyed on our first visit a few winters ago. I took an early morning walk up to Anafiotika, one of my favourite areas of the city – built by the islanders of Anafi. Its whitewashed streets perfectly peaceful in the early sun and nothing but a few cats to greet me as I climbed towards the Acropolis.

Athens - Kalabaka

After a few days in Athens we headed on the ‘most chaotic train trip ever’ to Kalambaka in Thessaly, to visit the monasteries in Meteora. We hiked upwards to the strange rock formations, wandered through spring meadows and forests – gazing upon the most beautiful views across the flat plains of farms and snow peaked mountains to the north. I used the time wisely and tackled a fear of dogs and heights!

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We leave for Delfi this afternoon a three-hour adventure on the Ktel bus service. I feel alive and my eyes are open.

Quick packing and long goodbyes

It is quite a weird sensation packing things up, neatly storing things away for an unknown point in the future. Going through the accumulation of our 12 years together, every treasured ticket stub, band t-shirt, LP, poetry book, and that’s just the good stuff! In our house there was also the horror of consumerism laid out before us in its suffocating glory! Every daft purchase, every emotional sale shop or hungover online click. All that stuff you didn’t need but fleetingly wanted. In order to tackle some of my most consumerist behaviour, and save money as we prepared for the break, I banned myself from shopping for clothes for 5 months. I’ll admit it was tough but liberating, in as much I was confronted with realising how easy is to part with cash on an impulsive lunchtime or wander-through-Zara on the way home. It’s all too easy to fill our houses with crap and then clear it all out when we move and in a panic contribute piles to the expanding landfill. It’s all very personal, some of us hoard, some of us shop, some of us can’t part with things. I needed to tackle this to know what matters to me, what makes me feel good and means more than the endless search to fill emptiness with things. I don’t want to be too evangelical about a temporary shopping ban, but I’d thoroughly recommend a break from it – it will save your mind as well as money. When I caved last week and replaced a worn out pair of jeans, I can’t deny the satisfaction of the purchase in its neat paper-bag swinging in the crook of my arm in the Spring lunchtime sun. Yes, it felt great, but it didn’t make me satisfied. It was good to recognise the difference between wanting and desire – the western capitalist ideal, and needing, the necessities of life.

This is just one of the strange sensations I have felt in the weeks since January when work plans fell into place – trying to tackle the immediate task list – sorting out the house, getting all the practicalities aligned ready to rent it , lots of admin and quick decisions to be made. This runs in total contradiction to the control I like to have for the long view. I’ve suddenly been forced to think about the next few days, not the months ahead. A shift to this mindful idea of now, living in the present, instead of my comfort-zone of the the amorphous concept of “the future”. It is happening right now, all of sudden like an avalanche that just means getting on with it is the only way. We have been holding on and that feels scary, but a good kind of scary. Like a swim out in unknown waters you’ve got to catch the current and keep going on the wave.

I write this on the East Coast Train after three days in my hometown, spending time with family and catching up with people who mean a lot to me, I’ve been trying not to think about the time apart – 6 months easily passes without seeing lots of each other. We’ll still stay in touch online and over the phone, busily catching up on scattered flashes of our lives and sharing photos to illustrate the pain and heartfelt joys over whatsapp. But I will miss the physicality of relationships, seeing people and connecting in person is never really substituted by the virtual world. But sometimes it can bring us closer, offering a more confessional ,more entertaining version of ourselves. This virtual presence takes effort, consideration and practice. I am confident I’ll stay in touch where it matters. And accept the distance where it doesn’t. After all, some say that home is just a state of mind.

The sun is flashing across the flat plains of Yorkshire, a flirty warmness offering just a hint of the good growing season ahead. This is my favourite time of the year – the crocuses blanket in purple hues and daffodils sway buoyantly in the breeze. I left my dad planting onion sets and ‘tiddling’ in the garden, he’s started off broad beans and sweet peas. This is all the practical but rewarding prep I love in the start of the year; starting off seedlings watching them respond to the warming temperatures, sorting out planting plans and new varieties to try. It feels like weeks of delicious promise as nature responds to the changes ahead.

I have missed this gardening phase already and am sure that I will miss my garden greatly.  But new growing adventures await in a real Greek garden…

Syros – a sophisticated detour

Syros is a mere detour for many tourists who change boats here as they hop along the Cyclades route  – but this means that they miss out on a great authentic Greek experience! We planned a 3 day stopover on the island sandwiched in between weeks on Andros and Sikinos. Our only regret is that we didn’t stay longer!

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Arriving into the port at Ermoupoli is a magnificent experience as the two hills of the town emerge with pastel shaded buildings in Venetian style. A Catholic and Orthodox church sitting atop each one as a reminder of the island history as a melting pot of east and western traditions.

I’d chosen to stay at The Good Life Greece as it came up on a quick internet  search – you’ll know my obsession with home-grown veg and gardening, but just say the words olive trees, rural life and goats – and consider me sold!  I liked the look of their website – props for good design, and articles which explain the owners Nick and Elspeth’s whole ethos of living organically and converting the houses sympathetically in a sustainable way.   Plus they’d been featured on the Guardian (okay, not always convincing as I like to find the ‘undiscovered’ gems) The reality didn’t disappoint! We’d emailed ahead to arrange a transfer, owner Nick met us at the port, driving us the short 15 mins to well,…heaven.

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The three villas at GLG sits on a slight incline, surrounded by a cinematic backdrop of hills and farm land. We were greeted by Zoe the most affable bundle of energy I’ve ever witnessed in a Dalmatian dog – also she’s quite the photogenic star in our pics! Apart from the peaceful location which was what we craved, the villas are lovingly appointed and matched by friendly hospitality from Nick and Elspeth, who provided lots of tips of places to eat and sights to see.

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Our villa was Reason – for just 2 of us but would easily suit a family as it has one double bed and a second sleeping area with twin beds. What really makes it stand out is the attention to detail in the 200 year old villa – incredible high quality decorative touches, traditional Mediterranean hues of blue  and white, in keeping with farmhouse idyll, but really  high quality touches like the unique eco heating/cooling system (utter silence for a perfect night sleep). They have created a place with style with substance! The fantastic kitchen is fully equipped, amazing espresso maker and everything you may ever need! We didn’t cook anything more advanced than fresh scrambled eggs and a salad, but if you felt the urge to compete with any of the local taverna offerings you could! With a vegetable garden and olive groves – it really is the good life! We spent at least an hour after we arrived saying ‘this is what my Greek house would be like’ to each other and smiling.  A big plus is the location; less than 10 minute slow meandering walk through farms on a winding path will take you to the local beach, Voulgari and a further 5 minutes will get you to tavernas and supermarket’s towards Finkas bay or towards Poseidonia.

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Perroquet Tranquille (meditereanan / french bisto) came recommended but we didn’t have time to sample it. We ate at Meltimi, a simple family run Taverna on the road back from Agathorpes beach – yummy fresh meze dishes and grilled meats. Sunsets are amazing here too!

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Agathopes is an organised and clean beach with a trendy hangout Bar/Restarunt that felt more Mykonos than humble Syros – but the beach was packed with locals and mostly Greek tourists – so has a full appeal. Although we preferred lounging on the beach closest to GLG; a small strip of shingle with tamarisk trees for shade and clear blue water perfect for snorkelling. Although not an island famed for beaches, it has enough dotted around the coast to explore and a great bus service round the island to the capital, Ermopoulis.

Syros has so much more we want to explore next time. From the wilder north of the island with its hiking trails and deserted beaches, not to mention exploring Ano Syros, the winding whitewashed steeps of the oldest part of the town high up on the hillside.

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What I can be very certain of  is that Syros really impressed us. Not just the quality accommodation, harking back to a more traditional way of living and as a cosmopolitan laid back island. Its less than a few hours from Athens and from what we heard is only ever described as busy in August when Greeks take their holidays too. It’s a compact island, yet serves as the administrative capital of the Kyclades Islands, foodie heaven, with enough rural charms and traditional ways to make it a perfect place to unwind and step back from hectic life.  Why get on the next ferry – you should stay here!